Saturday, December 12, 2009

Christmas-y quilts

Two wintery looking quilts that were here lately....
The first one is using the Snowflake pattern designed by Tammy Finkler. I thought it looked just like falling snow in front of the pieced trees in the quilt.

The second on is another tree quilt, this one using the Festive Holly pattern designed by Anne Bright.

The design showed up nicely on the back:

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Applying borders

The 2 biggest problems I see with new quilts coming in are 1) the backing is too small, and 2) the borders have fullness & don't lay flat.

The backing needs to be 3" bigger than the quilt top on all sides. So, if your quilt top is 70"x90", then your backing needs to be at least 76"x96". This way, if I need to trim a side to get a square back, then there will be enough fabric to work with.

The wavy border problem can be fixed by properly sewing them on your quilt. If you just sew on the border, and then trim off any excess, it's very likely you will end up with fullness in the border. If you measure the middle of the quilt, before applying the border, cut the border to that length, and then pin in place & sew on, you will have a much better chance of ending up with a flat & square quilt.

Follow this link to my website for a very short illustration of how to apply borders:

Choosing batting

Here is a list of the battings I currently carry for your to purchase & use in your quilts.

Hobbs Heirloom 80% poly/20% cotton 96" wide - $7.49/yard
Hobbs 3 oz. polyester 96" wide $3.50/yard (similar to low-loft Polyfil)
Quilter's Dream Poly $7.25/yard
Quilter's Dream Cotton $9.25/yard

Many of you ask, what kind of batting should I use?

First you must decide if cost or fiber content is the bigger factor. If you are going for the lowest cost, then the 3 oz. poly is the best choice. It has a little higher than a 1/4" loft, and will have no shrink.

If you like a very flat batting, then the Quilter's Dream battings would be a good choice. Both of them them will have 1% shrink or less. Both the Quilter's Dream Poly and the Quilter's Dream Cotton are very similar in weight and loft, and will be very similar in the finished quilt.

And somewhere in the middle is the Hobbs Heirloom. It has a little higher loft than the Quilter's Dream battings, but not as high as the 3 oz. poly. The manufacturer says that it has a shrink factor of 3-5%. If you don't mind a bit of shrink, this is a nice batting. Right now this is the most popular batting, and I use quite a bit of this.

To minimize shrink in both your battings & fabrics, wash your quilts in cool water, and tumble on low or no heat for 15 minutes. Then lay flat to dry completely.

The battings that I carry are all on a 30-yard roll. I often find that packaged battings can have permanent creases in them & don't lay flat. Usually they relax & bit and once quilted it's not noticeable, but sometimes there is a visible bump in the quilt where there is an uneven spot in the batting. Just be aware of this with packaged battings.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Binding Tutorial, Part 1

I've made a tutorial showing my method of doing bindings. It may be a bit different than the way you're used to doing it, or you may be new to quilting & just need some basic how-to's.

Here goes....
I start off trimming backing & batting even with the quilt top.

Then, add up the length of all 4 sides, and figure out how many strips you will need. I always cut them WOF, or width of fabric (going from one selvedge edge to the other). Most of them have at least a 40" useable width. For this baby quilt I needed 5 strips. I am cutting the strips 2.5" wide.

Join the strips with a bias seam. Take 2 strips, and ay them out as shown here, right sides together. Sew on the diagonal.

Trim off the extra triangle piece, 1/4" away from your seam. It should now look like this:

Press the seam open to reduce bulk. You can use an iron, or I just run my fingernail along the seam.

Continue adding more in the same way, until you get them all together. Now, using your iron, press the binding with wrong sides together, matching up the raw edges.

Now you will be attaching the binding to the back side of the quilt. Start in the middle of one side of the quilt, and match up the raw edges of the binding to the raw edge of the quilt. Leave about 12" of binding free behind your needle. Later you will need this free part to join to the other end. I stitch about 1/4" away from the raw edge of the binding. I don't pin, I just hold a small section in place at a time, and stop to re-adjust often.

Now, when you get to the corner, stop with your needle down when you are 1/4" away from the end of the quilt. Pivot, and sew right to the very corner, as shown. Now you can remove the quilt from your machine.

Now, a little fancy folding will give you a nice mitered corner. First, fold your binding the opposite way of the next side you'll do, like so.

Now, place your fingernail right along the red line, and fold the binding back to the left, over onto itself.

This is what it should look like. It's a little hard to see in this picture.

Maybe this video will help visualize the folding part.

Now take the quilt back to your sewing machine, and start sewing the next side down, starting right on the edge.

Continue on, doing all 4 sides, until you come within about 12 inches of the place your started.

Now on to part 2......